My Khe Beach

July 9th, 2009 by Elizabeth

What is now called My Khe Beach, was “China Beach” for the US Soldiers during the American-Vietnam War. Claiming to be the nicest and cleanest beach in all of Vietnam, My Khe Beach is enormously popular with the locals and tourists, and is on the east side of DaNang. Anytime before 3pm the beach is nearly deserted, as all the locals are at work or staying indoors to avoid the hot sun. But after 4pm, the beach fills up with a few thousand people, swimming and lounging on the soft sand, overlooking dozens of shrimp and fishing boats in the bay. It is very easy to see why the US soldiers enjoyed this resting spot for a little R&R before returning to combat. Our crew of volunteers went there yesterday evening after dinner for a swim: miles of sandy beach go north and south, all along DaNang and its surrounding suburbs. All of China Beach must cover 30-40-50? miles?!?! The water is warm enough to be comfortable, but yet cool enough to be refreshing. Sand is soft and smooth between my toes. Perfect. We stayed at the beach until after sunset, and I practiced my Vietnamese with a local vendor (my pronounciation sucks so they usually laugh at me). I bought a bag of Vietnamese coconut cotton candy from him (about 40 cents) to thank him for his educational services.

It was neat to visit the beach – I felt like I was really experiencing a piece of history. In the book “Letters From Vietnam” there are several mentions on this beach. If you have the time, I HIGHLY recommend the book.

Today after we returned from AOV2, Shirley (my 50-y.o. New Zealand friend) and I walked to one of our favorite markets to explore the local scene. We bring so much attention to ourselves everywhere we go – just because we look so different. I am hoping to purchase a few small things from the same vendors over the next couple of weeks (watermelon, crackers, cucumbers, limes, etc.) to establish a good rappor with them…so at the end of my trip they will let me take pictures of them. I have found that most Vietnamese women in markets are skiddish about allowing me to take photos of them or their goods. Shirley has found that if you have money, and buy from them, they will let you take photos. They are such cute little old ladies, obviously poor, and doing their best to make ends meet by selling whatever produce they can grow in their front yard.

Also went to the Malnourished Baby Orphanage later this afternoon and focused on physiotherapy for 3 of the children with cerebral palsy and other disabilities. Range of motion exercises, trunk/neck strengthening, massage, etc. Lots of fun but hard work! I sweat buckets every day and usually end up changing my clothes at least twice. Oh the kids are so sweet! Giant smiles and hugs (from those who are able) whenever I arrive. One child is deaf and blind – we focus mostly on infant massage and touch stimulation. He coos and grunts a little when I pick him up, but I found that if I put my cheek against his when I talk, he can feel the vibrations and I get a little smile out of him …it’s enough to melt my heart. It’s days like today when I know I made a small difference in a child’s life.

Thursday is my favorite because I get to play with about 30 babies in one day. Heck yes! And I have my eye on one that I WISH I could take home with me. He’s like 10 pounds – he wouldn’t take up much room! His name is Dung (pronounced Yoong) and he is sweet as pie. About 4-5 months old, the cutest smile, deep brown eyes, so pleasant, rarely fussy, a little mischievous, and cute ears that stick out like Dumbo. Seriously, if I wasn’t going back to school and moving to Milwaukee, this baby’s last name would be Hutter. Too bad GVN doesn’t facilitate adoptions, otherwise Mom and Dad would be grandparents next month.